Mobile battery replacement
Turn the key and get nothing but a click? We come to you, test the battery and the charging system properly, and fit the right replacement on the spot.
Tested first, replaced second
Plenty of outfits will sell you a battery the moment you tell them the car will not start. Sometimes that is right. Often it is not. A flat battery is a symptom, and if the real fault is the alternator, a corroded earth strap or something quietly draining current overnight, a new battery just delays the problem.
So we test before we sell. It takes a few minutes and it is the difference between fixing your car and moving the breakdown to next month.
- Battery state of charge and cranking capacity test
- Alternator and charging system output check
- Parasitic drain testing where the battery keeps going flat
- Terminal and earth strap inspection and cleaning
- Jump start where that is genuinely all you need
- Supply and fit of the correct battery for your vehicle
- Old battery removed and recycled properly
Is it the battery?
These usually point at the battery itself rather than something else.
Signs it is the battery
- Slow, laboured cranking that gets worse in cold weather
- A rapid clicking when you turn the key, and nothing else
- Dashboard lights that dim heavily while cranking
- Needing a jump start more than once in a few weeks
- Headlights noticeably dim at idle, brighter when you rev
- A battery more than five years old
- Swelling or crusty corrosion on the terminals
Or is it something else?
These usually point somewhere other than the battery, which is exactly why we test first.
Probably not the battery
- A battery warning light while driving, which is charging, not starting
- The engine turns over strongly but will not fire: fuel, spark or a sensor
- Nothing at all, no lights, no click: could be a fuse, an earth or the immobiliser
- A brand-new battery that goes flat within days: a parasitic drain
- A whining or grinding noise from the front of the engine: a failing alternator
Car will not start right now?
Have your registration ready. It tells us the exact battery your vehicle takes.
What people ask us
Typically four to six years in the UK climate. Short journeys shorten that considerably, because a fifteen-minute school run never fully recharges what starting the engine took out. If yours is past five years and starting feels sluggish, replace it before winter rather than after it strands you.
We use a memory saver to keep power to the vehicle systems while the battery is out, which preserves radio codes, seat memories, clock settings and stored fault codes. On some vehicles a few adaptations still need resetting afterwards, and we handle that before we leave.
Yes, and this matters. Stop-start vehicles need an AGM or EFB battery designed for constant cycling. Fitting a standard battery to a stop-start car will work for a while and then fail early, and it can upset the charging management system. We fit the correct type and register it to the vehicle where the car requires that.
Of course, if that is all it needs, for instance if you left the lights on. But if the battery is genuinely dead or the alternator is not charging, a jump only gets you as far as the next time you switch the engine off.
We can replace the 12V auxiliary battery on hybrids and EVs. They all have one, and it is a common failure that leaves the car completely dead despite a full traction battery. We do not work on high-voltage traction battery packs, which needs specialist EV certification.
Covering Slough, Iver, Uxbridge and West London
Also West Drayton, Hayes, Windsor, Marlow and Hounslow, and up to 50 miles from our Langley base.